Just north of San Diego, the sunny beaches of La Jolla — La Jolla Shores, La Jolla Cove
and Windansea — are iconic in the water world for kayakers, surfers, paddleboarders the snorkeling contingent. Locals and tourists alike swarm to the sandy stretches and rocky inlets, especially during the summer.
Fall brings the quiet season, when the beaches draw dedicated locals, of course, but far fewer tourists. And the pace is slower, more in tune with the rhythm of the tides and ever-present sound of the ocean’s waves rising, breaking and receding.
A recent weekend found us at the La Jolla Shores Hotel, the beachside hotel at the southern end of the sandy crescent that curves from Scripps Pier down to the popular
Marine Room restaurant. The hotel provides umbrellas, chairs and towels for beachgoing guests. Its restaurant is open all day. And there’s a van on tap to take guests anywhere within a five-mile radius between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m. — to La Jolla Cove beach for snorkeling, perhaps, Windansea for surfing and spectating, Scripps Aquarium or nearby eateries.
The eminently walkable, beachy neighborhood of La Jolla Shores is peopled with sun-bronzed sea enthusiasts of all ages. Restaurants, coffee shops, and boutiques share curb space here with surf shops and kayak schools. Start your day with a coffee and pastry — perhaps from the nearby Brick & Bell Cafe — to enjoy from a perch on the sea wall. Then hit the shore for a swim, a stroll or beach read.
The patio at the hotel’s The Shores Restaurant is a good lunchtime option for grilled fish tacos, salads and other fare. I thoroughly enjoyed a ceviche tostada, loaded with shellfish, avocado and salsa — and it’s hard to say no to a beachside margarita. Or stroll up the beach to Caroline’s Seaside Cafe near UC San Diego’s Scripps Pier. Place your order, take a number and settle in at a table overlooking the surfers below. Everything on the menu is good, from the chopped salad ($15) with quinoa, avocado, arugula and butternut squash to The Cove Burger ($17.50).
A couple of miles in the other direction is La Jolla Cove, part of the 6,000-acre San Diego-La Jolla Underwater Park ecological reserve, which includes underwater caves, canyons, kelp beds and teeming marine life.
Head for the nearby Cave Store first, where $10 ($6 for kids and teens) gets you access to a bootleggers’ tunnel that dates back to 1905. Clamber down the 145 steps to Sunny Jim’s sea cave, where the ocean churns just below a viewing platform. You’ll likely see kayakers just beyond, looking at the cave from the outside in.
Then head back up to browse the store’s historic photos and beach-related merchandise, before exploring the cove itself. The beach here is small and sheltered with gentle waves, making it ideal for swimming, snorkeling and scuba. It’s a good spot for sunbathing, too, as you sit on the rocks, lulled by the sound of the ocean and the sight of the seals who make this their home.
It’s a short walk from there to La Jolla Village, where swanky restaurants, hotels, shops and galleries line the streets. The historic, bougainvillea-draped La Valencia Hotel has a secluded patio for lunch or dinner, as well as guest rooms, suites and villas. And the nearby Grande Colonial hotel, built in 1913, is home to chef Jason Knibb’s Nine-Ten restaurant, whose coastal-influenced menu has drawn Michelin attention. (And sandy, seawater-dampened visitors will want to get cleaned up before venturing inside. This is a white tablecloth spot.)
Windansea, at the southernmost end of La Jolla, is one of the best-known surf spots along the SoCal coast. With its rocky beach, steep drop-off, large waves and strong currents, it’s not recommended for swimmers, but it’s a great place to watch accomplished surfers ride the waves.
Grab a drink from one of the coffee spots, juice bars or cafes in the adjacent Bird Rock neighborhood — a hazelnut latte Sandpiper, perhaps, at Bird Rock Coffee Roasters or a cold-pressed juice at the Seaside Surf Cafe, which is adjacent to the Bird Rock Surf Shop.
Then take that sip down to the beach and enjoy the spectacle.
If You Go
La Jolla Shores Hotel: Rooms start at $256. Find the hotel at 8110 Camino Del Oro in La Jolla; www.ljshoreshotel.com.
Brick & Bell Cafe: Opens at 5 a.m. weekdays and 6 a.m. weekends at 2216 Avenida De La Playa; 858-333-1673.
Caroline’s Seaside Cafe: Open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily at 8610 Charles F. Kennel Way; https://carolinesseasidecafe.com.
Cave Store: Open from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. at 1325 Coast Blvd.; www.cavestore.com.
La Valencia Hotel: Rooms start at $355. Find the hotel at 1132 Prospect Ave.; www.lavalencia.com.
The Grand Colonial: Rooms start at $237. Find the hotel at 910 Prospect Ave,; https://thegrandecolonial.com
Bird Rock Coffee Roasters: Opens at 6 a.m. daily at 5627 La Jolla Blvd.; https://birdrockcoffee.com.
Seaside Surf Cafe: Opens at 7:30 a.m. daily at 5517 La Jolla Blvd., adjacent to the Bird Rock Surf Shop; https://seaside-smoothie-and-juice-bar.square.site/.
